Frequently Asked Questions

What direction should the solar collector(s) be facing?

For the best results the collector(s) should be facing due south, although its not essential for them to be positioned in this orientation performance will diminish the further away from this they are.

Will my roof be strong enough to take the solar collector(s)?

Yes, relative to the materials used in the construction of roofs of domestic housing in the UK, the solar collectors are very light weight.

How many solar collectors will I need?

This will depend on a number of factors but mainly the size of the hot-water storage cylinder to be heated. other factors to take into account include the orientation of the collectors, and what surrounds them i.e tall trees, chimney stacks, dormer windows or adjoining walls.

Will I need planning consent to install solar heating?

In almost all cases there will be no need to seek planning permission to install your solar collectors although do check with your local authority especially if you plan to install on listed buildings or if you live in a conservation area.

Will I be able to install a system myself?

These systems are relatively simple to install, a basic knowledge of plumbing and an even more basic knowledge of electrical systems should be enough to safely install your solar hot water system.

Alternatively we can arrange installation of your system for you, or come along and complete one of our installation courses. For more information on either of these services feel free to contact us.

Will I need any special tools to install my solar heating system?

No, the only equipment that could be considered as ‘special’ would be access equipment such as ladders and a scaffold tower. Otherwise basic plumbing and electrical tools are sufficient.

Can I buy replacement vacuum tubes?

Replacement tubes are rarely required as our vacuum tubes are very strong, and very well packaged. However accidents happen and replacement tubes can be purchased from us.

What are the differences between a vented and an unvented hot water cylinder?

The main difference between vented (copper) hot water cylinders and unvented (stainess steel) hot water cylinders is that by using an unvented cylinder you will have mains pressure hot water which means more powerful showering and faster bath filling. Unvented cylinders are more expensive than vented cylinders because of this increased performance and the materials and processes used during manufacture.

Will I be able to install an unvented hot water cylinder myself?

Installation of an unvented cylinder should only be carried out by a 'competent person' this is an installer who is qualified under part ‘G3’ of the building regulations. Installation of an unvented cylinder is far more complicated than a regular vented copper cylinder and can be very dangerous if its not installed correctly.

What size hot water cylinder will I need?

This will depend on how many people are using the hot water supply and how many bathrooms there are in the property. As a general rule, 150l is sufficient for a small house with a single bathroom while 210l is sufficient for a large house with 2 bathrooms.

Will my solar hot water system need regular maintainence or servicing?

As a rule the system should not need regular mainainence or servicing as there are few components to actually maintain.

Would I be able to use solar hot water heating with my combi boiler?

There are boilers on the market that will accept pre-heated water, and if you’re planning to use your solar thermal system in conjunction with your combi then you are advised to seek advice on whether yours will be compatible before purchasing any solar heating equipment. If your boiler is one that will not accept pre-heated water we can help you with a solution.

Would it be possible to heat my house using solar water heating?

It is possible to go a long way towards heating your house throughout the year using solar heating. It is essential that any space heating in the building is done via underfloor heating because of its low temperatures, and that because of the area of collectors required to generate enough solar gain throughout the winter there is a sufficient heat dump to remove the build-up of heat during the summer. The best way to do this is to use a swimming pool.

Would it be possible to heat my swimming pool using solar water heating?

Yes, to heat a swimming pool is a very similar system to a regular solar hot water system, it uses a heat exchanger to keep the chloronated water seperate as this will damage the collector.

How do evacuated tube collectors compare to flat-plate collectors?

 On a hot sunny day, flat plate collectors will produce about the same amount of heat as vacuum tube collectors of the same area. Under all other conditions the vacuum tube panel will outperform flat panels. Usually by a significant margin. Flat plate collectors perform badly during windy weather unless integrated into the roof, in cold conditions, in overcast conditions etc. Some of the best flat plate collectors can compensate for this by design, but even then they still don't perform as well as evacuated tube collectors.

Are the glass tubes strong enough to withstand attack from the weather?

Yes, the tubes are made from 'borosilicate glass' which is very tough. The tubes are designed to withstand hailstones up to 35mm so they are unlikely to be broken unless dropped onto a solid floor prior to installation.

How will the collectors be protected from freezing in winter?

The collectors will not come to any damage through freezing conditions providing the water content contains the correct amount of anti-freeze, we can supply this from our shop.

Alternatively, most of our controllers have a frost-protection system buit in but its always advisable to use anti-freeze because in the event that power is lost so will the functions of the controller.

What is a thermal store?

A thermal store is a hot-water cylinder which has a high efficiency coil fitted. The mains cold water is fed into this coil, heating the water on its way through. The mains water exits as hot as the water in the cylinder, but without losing any pressure - therefore providing mains pressure hot water to the outlets.

We reccomend fitting a thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) set at 60ºC at the hot water outlet from the cylinder as the flow could be dangerously hot.